Restaurant Review: The New American

Masterminded by the culinary brains at IHM – the boys that brought you Posto Publicco and Linguini Fini - Stone Nullah Tavern is Wan Chai’s hot new eatery.

With its French windows pushed back, the new Stone Nullah Tavern beckons to passers-by, inviting them to come in and enjoy the cosy ambience created by the timber panels, warm lighting and understated furniture. If you’re just stopping in for a drink, grab a table near the windows and indulge in a spot of people-watching while trying out the drinks menu.
Of course, this is a restaurant, and the focus is squarely on the food. Touted as New American – which can be loosely described as innovative reinterpretations of classic American fare with a few surprises thrown in – dishes here are made to be shared, a nice change from the standard oversized portions of other American-style restaurants.

Executive chef Vinny Lauria has created a menu based on seasonal offerings, so dishes may come and go as frequently. The current menu features updated version of childhood classics like Tater Tots, paired with lardo aioli and sriracha ketchup; and Mac & Cheese, as well as chicken wings\ that are, in a word, sublime. The ‘swine’ section of the menu packs a few unexpected options: the Cheddarwurst is a homemade pork sausage seasoned with garlic, sage and cheese, and served with pickled apples and homemade mustard, while the Crispy Pig’s Head is a breaded and fried terrine finished off with lobster salad and chilli citronette.

Whatever you order, be sure to leave room for dessert. The Fat Kid Cake is decadent layers of cheesecake, crème brulée, and tiramisu on a red velvet base, which elicits raves from everyone that indulges. However much they change the menu, we do hope they keep letting us eat cake! - By Gayatri Bhaumik

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